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Mariani's Virtual Gourmet Newsletter, February 18, 2002 -- by John Mariani
Part Two by John Mariani CLEVELAND: A Place Called Fire by Darryl Beeson
Fire Is a Crowded Restaurant by Darryl Beeson
When I'm discussing Cleveland fine dining with outsiders, the response
is often, "Cleveland. . . oh." The "oh" is not short for Ohio. It is a
way of communicating disbelief. But there is a very exciting new restaurant
in town, Fire (13220 Shaker Square; 216-921-3473), presumably named for
the kitchen's slick stainless steel, brick-lined oven, and not for the
nearby Cuyahoga River's former propensity to ignite. Fire was opened last
summer by chef Douglas Katz previously at Cleveland's Moxie restaurant,
Little Nell in Aspen, and the Boston Harbour Hotel, and prices are in
line with mid-west sensibilities; ingredients are fresh, well selected,
and generous.
The decor is bare bones but vibrant. Aromas and sizzle bound through
the dining room, sort of haute tumult. Some may find some tables too close
to the open kitchen too hot and too noisy. Fresh baked baguette slices
are presented to your table in a brown-paper bag, and the small tables
are decked out with colorful Fiesta-ware plates. Whimsy and cleverness
works at Fire (note: a little cleverness goes a dangerously long way with
some chefs). The Caesar salad ($6) is offered with a tray of silver spoons
primed with capers, crumbled bacon, and egg-clever but good, as is the
flank steak ($19), served with spicy black beans and seared corn salad,
and the roast leg of lamb ($19), matched with a firmly textured ratatouille
and cloud-like cheese polenta. On another visit, lamb was offered as a
sliced boneless rack fanned over mushroom barley ($20). "Crispy duck with
sweet potatoes" ($23) was actually a confit, and a perfect one. The free-range
Niman Ranch pork chop ($18) is delicious. The smell of sweet basil fills
the room via an entree of rock shrimp on linguine al pesto ($17). Seafood
is well represented: try the local trout ($19) served with lentils and
bacon, or the Atlantic cod ($19) atop a shallow pour of chowder laced
with big clams. A cheeseburger and fries ($14) further broke the ice at
this non- stuffy but hot dining destination. Pastry chef Heather Haviland's
desserts are to die for. Fire's winelist, with 24 wines by the glass,
shows marvelous insight and pricing constraint. The Eyrie pinot Gris ($27)
from Oregon and the '97 Chateau Plagnac ($26) demonstrate wines well suited
for Katz's cuisine. Wine is served in Reidel stemware. Fire is open for
dinner Tuesday through Saturday, with brunch on the weekend. 10 p.m. Sunday.
Reservations are recommended by calling 216-921-3473.
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