The Plain Dealer

Hot times and hot tastes abound at fire

By Wilma Salisbury Plain Dealer Reporter Friday, November 16, 2001

Fire, the exciting contemporary bistro owned by chef Doug Katz, has blazed as one of the hottest new restaurants in Cleveland ever since its opening last summer at the former site of the Shaker Square Arabica. The reasons for its popularity? Outstanding American cuisine simply prepared from prime ingredients couple with a lively atmosphere, geminimalistnerous portions, attentive service by a bright young staff and - considering the quality - reasonable prices. The modern decor, menu design and signature take-home boxes are reminiscent of Moxie, the trendy Beachwood bistro that opened four years ago with Katz as executive chef. Some staff members followed the chef to fire, which enjoys the advantage of a prime location in a newly rejuvenated historic shopping district. Exposed ductwork, bare wood floors, stainless steel-and-wood chairs and white paper-covered tables in rigid rows gives the dining room a high-tech look. A window table is best for comfort and people-watching. Closer to the open kitchen, the temperature and noise level get a little high.

Wherever you sit, the aromas are tantalizing. The mouth-watering fragrance of basil announces itself long before an entree of rock shrimp linguini with pesto ($17) reaches a neighbor's table. Ditto for the gruyere on an appetizer pizza ($8) that balances the right amount of the distinctive cheese with portabello mushrooms on a crunchy, cornmeal-dusted crust. Caramelized onions make frequent appearances. Intense double-smoked bacon ($1 a slice at brunch) shows up in entrees, side dishes and salad. A cheese selection ($8 for three choice wedges) is a good place to start while studying the menu and sharing a pleasant bottle of wine, such as Satiro Sangiovese '98 ($22). An attentive server, noticing a party of four trying to divvy up the three plump raspberries on the platter, thoughtfully provided an extra berry in a silver cup. On another occasion, a personable server brought the shrimp appetizer we had asked about rather than the cured salmon we ordered. Because of his error, we were not charged for the three jumbo shrimp ($10.50). Simply sauteed with shallots and garlic, they were delicious; so was the thin slice of lightly smoked salmon ($10) layered between a breakfast-style corn pancake and a cool cucumber salad topped with creme fraiche. A summer favorite, the salmon app is one of several dishes slated to be replaced as the menu shifts to heartier winter fare.

Salads are large enough to split. Ordinary iceberg ($6) is elevated to epicurean status with superlative Maytag bleu cheese dressing. Mixed greens ($4) are tossed with flavorful house vinaigrette and "firecrackers" (crushed breadsticks rolled in hot spices and seeds). Caesar salad ($6) is imaginatively presented with a tray of silver spoons containing capers, crumbled bacon, egg and other extras. Freshly baked baguettes are served in brown-paper bags that match the playful mood of colorful Fiesta-style dinnerware. Regrettably, the tables are so small that the bread bag sometimes falls over the edge. Meat entrees, cooked in rustic brick or tandoori ovens, include a huge, juicy pork chop ($18) that comes with peppery butter beans and red cabbage cole slaw, and tender flank steak ($19) that gets a Southwest accent from spicy black beans and grilled corn salad. Slices of perfectly prepared roast leg of lamb ($19) are paired with cheesy polenta and chunky ratatouille. Crispy duck confit ($23) tastes heavenly with roasted plums, sauteed Swiss chard and spaetzle. Vegetarians should be happy with lasagna ($14) or roasted vegetables with herb-crusted tofu ($15). Those who prefer seafood can't go wrong with Atlantic cod ($19) lightly browned and attractively presented on a pool of creamy clam chowder with three fat clams, caramelized onions and a crown of sauteed spinach. The first bite of trout ($19), served with bacon and wild rice, is a little too salty - but once the skin is removed, the delicate flesh melts in the mouth.

For a fabulous finish, order one of the delectable desserts ($6 to $7) created by pastry chef extraordinaire Heather Haviland. Among the choices are 40-layer cashew crepe torte with real whipped cream; a gourmet version of simple S'mores; liqueur-flavored triple chocolate truffles; pear ginger bread trifle with an old-fashioned ginger cookie; warm apple pie on a buttery crumb crust; and rich pound cake with caramelized plums. Desserts are available at dinner and brunch. But nothing sweet is needed following luscious brunch specialties such as zesty lemon souffle pancakes with tart blueberry sauce ($10) or thick slices of brioche French toast with genuine maple syrup ($10). Because the talented kitchen staff is stretched to capacity, the restaurant will not begin offering lunch until next spring. But here's good news: Saturday brunch will be added beginning next week, just in time to accommodate more fire eaters during the holiday season. Contact Wilma Salisbury at: wsalisbury@plaind.com, 216-999-4248 ©2000 THE PLAIN DEALER. Used with permission.