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The Plain Dealer

Area chef slicing, dicing at Olympics

2/20/02 Joe Crea

Another Northeast Ohioan is heading for the 2002 Winter Games. But when Doug Katz arrives in Salt Lake City, the metal he'll be looking for won't be silver or gold - just aluminum and stainless steel.

Pots and pans will occupy Katz, chef-owner of fire food & drink in Shaker Square, when he lands in Utah tomorrow. Katz of Cleveland Heights is one of only 45 American chefs invited to cook at "The Art of the Table," the first-ever culinary program held in conjunction with the Olympics.

Katz's appearance is part of a series of special dinners being held in the Olympic Village. The meals, to benefit the scholarship program of the James Beard Foundation, a not-for-profit culinary arts organization based in New York City, are hosted by major Olympics underwriters such as Sears and Coca-Cola. The events are part of the Olympic Arts Festival, one of the programs surrounding the Winter Games. Corporate officials and their guests will dine before attending one in a series of fine art events that includes orchestral performances, gallery viewings and jazz concerts.

"I'm just amazed," Katz says, his voice rising with enthusiasm. He is the only chef selected from Ohio. "I don't think it hit me until this week: to go to the Olympics just to see it - that's one wonderful thing; to be asked by the foundation is overwhelming, and then to participate . . . I'm speechless. Definitely a once in a lifetime experience."

An undeniable honor, too. Many of the nation's top chefs have been invited to the international showcase, among them Michael Mina of Aqua in San Francisco; Norman Van Aken of Norman's in Coral Gables, Fla.; Sarah Stegner of the Ritz-Carlton, Chicago; and Roberto Donna of Galileo in Washington, D.C.

Katz, who will be accompanied by his partner, wife Karen Katz, will cook Saturday night, on the eve of the 2002 Olympics' closing events. He will pair with Debbie Gold and Michael Smith, formerly of the American Restaurant in Kansas City, Mo. The trio worked together in 1999 when Gold and Smith cooked at a Beard Foundation dinner at Moxie restaurant in Beachwood, where Katz formerly served as executive chef.

"I'll be making an appetizer of beef short ribs on bite-sized potato cakes with horseradish cream," Katz says, adding that his partner chefs will also make hors d'oeuvres, as well as a showcase course. Katz will prepare a salad of quail marinated in cinnamon, cloves and onion that's pan-seared then served atop mixed greens garnished with candied almonds and a chunky orange vinaigrette. Smith's entree features squab; Gold is planning a dessert.

Performance anxiety isn't Katz's concern. Time, staffing and security are greater issues.

"I'll arrive Thursday morning, prep during Thursday and Friday, cook Saturday and leave Sunday morning," Katz says. "They give you an opportunity to attend a couple of events, but I'll probably be too busy. Karen may be able to attend something."

Olympics security is so tight that Katz was unable to take assistants to help with all the cutting and chopping he'll face.

"I'm not sure even Karen will be able to work with me," Katz says, "but I'm sure the other chefs will pitch in.

"We're so . . . well, anxious," he adds. "For security they do a background check on everything, even your credit report. After awhile you feel like maybe you should just stay in the condo.

"Somehow, I'm guessing we'll manage to have some fun at the Olympics all the same."