back Chagrin Valley/Solon Times Published: May 31, 2007 Shaker Square’s Fire still hot By Gordon Blue It has been a few years since I have visited Fire professionally, and, although I stop in there periodically for my own enjoyment, I thought it was time to take a critical look at Doug Katz’s spot on Shaker Square. The first impression of the restaurant is excellent, since it offers valet parking, and parking has always been a major problem at Shaker Square. Inside, the softly lit restaurant remains beautiful. During the longer summer hours, diners can enjoy the outdoor patio. Or they can dine next to the French doors that line the exterior wall, allowing the room to be filled with light and offering an unobstructed view of the street scene. To the right of the entrance is a small but intimate bar that seems to attract a crowd of young regulars. Beyond the bar is a nice private room, which can be used for parties or overflow dining. The main dining room is attractive, and all tables have an unimpeded view of the display kitchen where Mr. Katz and his crew work tirelessly. The menu begins with some clay-oven breads, including some great designerstyle pizzas in the $9 to $10 range. Appetizers feature a generous portion of mussels in a tomato broth with grilled bread ($12) and crispy chicken livers served with spinach and bacon with a Concord grape compote ($9). A great beginner is the fire-roasted banana peppers stuffed with housemade sausage and tomatoes ($9). Another appetizer not to miss is the baby scallops with Trumpet Royale mushrooms, leeks and Brussels sprouts ($17). A pate of the day ($10) and a very nice cheese plate garnished with quince jam, rosemary honey and nuts ($12) all make great beginnings. A-la-carte salads include a very interesting roasted beets with cucumber and watercress in a creamy horseradish vinaigrette ($8) and a fine iceberg served with oven-dried tomatoes and red onions in a buttermilk blue cheese ($6.00). Chef-owner Mr. Katz varies his menu regularly, but certain entrees jump off the menu, including a herb-crusted crabcake affair served with red pepper, sweet corn and pearl onion succotash ($26), a sauteed Arctic char with caramelized fingerling potatoes ($25) and a fantastic pan-roasted Atlantic cod ($27). Despite menu changes, a roasted organic chicken with Parmesan gnocchi ($22) and the signature crispy duck with French green lentils and buttered cabbage ($24) continue to remain diner favorites. A braised Jamison Farm lamb ($22) and a grilled venison strip ($31) present dishes not found on most area menus. As a gourmet chef, Mr. Katz might hate to hear me say that his burger may be the best in town. Served with lettuce, tomato and onion and topped with excellent cheddar cheese and a mustard aioli garnished with french fries and, best of all, his kosher-style dill pickles, this burger is more than a meal and a real value at $15. After dinner, Fire offers a number of nice desserts, including local apple fritters and hot spiced apple cider ($8), a great spiced pecan cake ($8) and a decadent poached pear tart with chocolate sauce ($8). The dessert menu also offers a number of nice coffees, ports and dessert wines. Service is consistently excellent at the restaurant, and both kitchen crew and servers seem to genuinely enjoy working for Mr. Katz. The restaurant offers a full beer, wine and liquor service, and reservations are strongly recommended, especially during the summer and on weekends. Dress is upscale casual, and the restaurant is a good place to stop before a movie or after the theater. I was pleased that Fire remains creative, innovative, warm and consistently good. The restaurant makes sense for a quick drink and a light bite before or after the theater or for a leisurely finedining experience. Fire is still hot on the Cleveland dining scene.